Leathergoods
Leather Types
The quality of leather depends on the part of the hide, the tanning process and how it is finished. Terms such as “genuine leather” do not, by themselves, tell you whether a product uses full-grain, top-grain or split leather. We prefer to describe the actual materials used in each Hugin Design piece.
We work with carefully selected full-grain leathers, including Italian vegetable-tanned Buttero and Pueblo, as well as Australian pull-up leather in selected designs. Refer to individual product listings for the specific materials used.
Full-Grain Leather: Leather that retains the natural outer grain surface of the hide without sanding or buffing away its grain. Natural marks and variations are part of its individual character.
Top-Grain Leather: This type of leather has had the top layer sanded or buffed to remove imperfections and may be embossed with a grain pattern. It's more uniform in appearance than full-grain and is often used in high-end products.
Split Leather: Leather made from layers below the outer grain surface. It can be finished or coated for different appearances. The term “genuine leather” alone does not reliably identify a particular grade or layer.
Bonded Leather: This is made from leather scraps and fibres that are bonded together with a polyurethane or latex adhesive. It's a more affordable option but is generally less durable than other types of leather.
Vegetable-tanning vs Chrome-tanning
Both types of leathers go through a tanning process, but the methods are very different.
Vegetable tanning uses tannins extracted from plant materials as part of the tanning process. Depending on the leather and its finish, it can begin relatively firm and develop a distinctive patina with use.
Different tanning and finishing processes produce a range of textures, colours and ageing characteristics.
Both vegetable- and chrome-tanning have environmental impacts. The tanning method alone does not determine a finished leather's environmental footprint.
Chrome-tanned leathers are often used for their efficiency in both time and cost. The process can be completed in just 1-2 days, resulting in a softer leather that can be dyed in rich colors. Additionally, it offers greater heat and water resistance for various applications.
These are some of the Leathers we use in our products:
Pueblo (1.2-1.4mm)
Sourced from Badalassi Carlo Tannery, Italy, the Pueblo leather is a premium, full-grain leather well known for its exceptional quality and distinctive characteristics and aniline finish. Pueblo vegetable tanned leather is the first layer of leather, has the highest durability and the characteristic aroma of Italian leather. Skilled tanners enhance the potential of each cow shoulder hide using expert techniques and innovative processing to transform them into unique and proud material leathers.
One of the most special points of Pueblo leather is the ability to develop a rich natural patina over time.
Buttero (1.2-1.4mm)
Produced by Conceria Walpier Tannery in Tuscany, Italy, known for high quality and unique characteristics. It is a full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather, superbly smooth finish and vibrant colours that develops a rich patina over time.
Buttero is cut from the shoulder area of the hide and is known for its tensile strength and quality. The surface is relatively resistant to water, making it easy to work with and clean.
Dollaro (1.2-1.4mm)
A printed grain cowhide from Conceria Walpier with very firm temper and medium scratch resistance. This leather starts off with a Buttero base (see above) and is further processed with heat embossing to produce its grain. This process increases its temper by hardening the surface which also in turn improves its scratch resistance. Unlike most embossed leather the Dollaro is vegetable tanned and will develop patina over time.
Thread used for our hand-stitched products:
Ritza Tiger
The renowned Ritza Tiger Thread from Julian Koch is a braided polyester thread with a waxed finish. It is globally acclaimed for its strength and durability. With a flat profile, it adds a unique and high-quality touch to any project.
Vinymo MTB
Vinymo MBT from Japan is a twisted polyester thread that is excellent for both hand stitching and machine sewing. Due to the twisting and bonding of the thread, it stays tightly woven even after being cut. This thread stitches beautifully and securely, providing a polished and neat finish.
